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Joe's opened on Miami Beach in 1913, before the causeway, and built itself around a shellfish nobody was eating: the stone crab, whose claws regrow, served chilled with mustard sauce. It closes for the summer when the season shuts and takes no reservations, which has not thinned the queue in a century.

Daniel Humm reopened the three-Michelin-star dining room after the pandemic having cut every animal product from the menu, the first restaurant at that level to go fully plant-based. It has since added optional meat and fish substitutions.